Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin finished just a couple of days ago so I thought I would compile a list of my thoughts and favourite shows from the festival.
The Top Eight Shows:
I’vr Isabel Vollrath
Walking works of art. Winter dressing in its most beautiful form. Warm, strong and functional clothing for the modern woman. I thought this was the BEST show – check out my previous post ‘The best runway show at MBFWB’ for a more in-depth discussion.
A close second, I found this show intriguing for its use of green hues, the lustrous textures, and the juxtaposition of light versus heavy fabric.
A strong fairytale narrative shone through this presentation. The romantic colour palette is refreshing and youthful. Although essentially theatrical, this collection with its colour blocking and layering produced a series of ultra wearable separates.
This ethically sourced label, founded in 2014, exhibited a really lovely autumnal colour palette with great use of texture, depth and details. Silhouettes and lines were architectural, with an emphasis on soft femininity evoked through effortlessly lithe yet practical fabrics.
An overall sporty and relaxed collection featuring flat shoes, polka dots, linen and suede. The colour palette tended slightly towards summery tints of blue but was kept grounded with deep khaki and beige. The layering of wispy and delicate sheer pants/petticoats added to the narrative of a dreamy weightlessness.
Filled with texture, movement and amusement. I loved the electric velvets and bright blocks of colour. Appealed to both the colour loving and more conservative audiences.
Ultra glossy statements blended with everyday knitwear to produce shopping-centre-chic (a term I just made up!). Like many of the shows, velvet made an appearance, as did the turtleneck.
This is a collection that takes itself seriously – lengthened sleeves, quilted pieces, military boots and strong feelings of independence. Fun fact: when Odeur Studios first started in 2006, they labeled their clothes with unique perfume cards instead of clothing tags in an experimental concept of branding.
General themes coming through:
Lustre: “a gentle sheen or soft glow”. Designers were keen to break with the convention of winter being dark and dreary. High sheen textiles and iridescent fabrics made rather prominent appearances coupled with the statement that just because it’s cold and clothes need to be functionally warm, it doesn’t mean that things can’t shine.
Quilting is a useful technique to bulk up fabrics and turn them into heavy-duty products. Several of the Berlin shows featured this manipulation technique.
In general, a lot of the collections were in the spirit of relaxed everyday clothing, like a hybrid form of sportswear/sportsluxe/loungewear/androgynous clothing.
This trend is going nowhere. It’s here to stay for a good while yet.
There were several collections featuring shiny pants, which I thought was really cool. Who doesn’t love shiny pants? Self confidence is a must-have if one were to pull off this look, but I sincerely admire anybody who’ll give it a go.
A return to tailoring:
Tailored – “smart, fitted and well cut”. This now sounds contradictory after reading point 3 above, however I do believe that impeccable tailoring is slowly making a comeback in the fashion world.
Conventional winter colour palettes:
Across the board, designers aligned themselves with the conventional winter colour palette of black, brown, blue and green. Some turned to autumnal hues, while a minority ambitiously explored a wider range of colours from the spectrum.
Colours, for the most part, were bold and confident, often being paired in contrasting and clashing combinations. Looks were cut and divided by colour. Colour blocking is a great trend for people who want to make a bold statement.
I’m always happy to see this and I’m happy it’s making waves in the mainstream fashion world.
Most, if not all, of the shows anchored themselves with black and dark colours. It was a winter presentation, so it doesn’t take a genius to predict this. Black is a smart colour for coordinating multiple pieces together and consumers will appreciate this cohesion when they formulate their own looks.
Thanks for reading!
Photo credit: Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Berlin official images in conjunction with Getty Images and associated photographers [http://mbfashionweek.com/gallery/deu-ivr-isabel-vollrath-show-mercedes-benz-fashion-week-berlin-aw-2017]