London Fashion Week Men’s AW17: Best Of

London Fashion Week Men’s kicked off the 2017 fashion calendar on January 6th – 9th. These shows are the AW17 collections. 

General ideas:

  • Functionality and practicality over form and frivolity
  • Themes explored: man vs machine, the rise of the digital age, freedom, restriction, breaking societal norms, extreme preoccupation/ busy-ness
  • Palette: traditional autumn winter colours, dense prints, bright contrast colours
  • Gender ambiguousness

Here are my highlights and notes on some of the shows that stood out.

Friday 6th January:

  • Phoebe English Man: This collection presentation set models undertaking domestic chores, illustrating the emphasis of practicality or function over form.

 

Saturday 7th January:

  • Christopher Shannon: Patchwork. Subtle – yet not so in some cases – parodying of other big international labels in fashion. I don’t really understand the melted flags on the models’ faces…
  • Matthew Miller: Every piece is androgynous.
  • Oliver Spencer: Peaceful and mature. Autumnal palette.
  • What We Wear: Musician Tinie Tempah’s debut collection. Millennials everywhere are going to be imitating this collection in every way possible. Sports-luxe street style with heavy 90s influences. Silhouettes are simple, with a prevalent industrial feel conveyed via high lustre textiles and metallic hardware (buttons, zips) details. Tracksuits reign supreme. Despite being shown as a men’s collection, the pieces will easily translate to women’s street style. An extremely wearable collection that even I would enjoy wearing.
  • Casely-Hayford: A game of proportions.

 

Sunday 8th January:

  • J.W.Anderson: An abundance of arbitrary crotchet motifs scattered throughout.

jw-anderson-lfwm-aw17-crotchetJ.W.Anderson. Source: The Up Coming.

  • BERTHOLD: Having a presentation entitled Asylum, Berthold conveyed a sense of detainment and confinement. Looks held a reminiscent clinical feel, further enhanced by a colour palette made up of three colours. In this sense, the collection is seen as a study in minimalism.
  • CHALAYAN: Exceptional tailoring and construction. According to chalayanstudio’s instagram the theme of the collection is: “Act to Form – “In the current world order, our sense of Universal Personhood is constantly in a state of flux.”” I interpret this to mean that the definition of (being) a person is becoming hazy as technology and the digital age advances to a point where we are struggling to keep up. What role do things like artificial intelligence play in the role of the person? And, will humans one day become obsolete?
  • Maison MIHARA YASUHIRO: Traditional winter palette of black, brown, beige, with khaki and maroon thrown in for good measure. The grey mesh overcoats of the show could easily become the next street-style it-jackets.
  • KTZ: Punk and bondage. Very punky. The black and white stark contrasting lace ups almost turn the silhouettes and garments into a black and white skeleton cartoons.
  • Sibling: Hectically entertaining prints and ruffles. Volume vs silhouette. Animal print, sequins, spots, stripes, vibrant colour. A really endearing collection.

Monday 9th January:

  • SONGZIO: This contemporary menswear brand, based in Seoul and Paris exhibited staples reinvented, velvet, a refined colour palette and variations of the black suit.
  • JOHN LAWRENCE SULLIVAN: Military meets sport-luxe.
lfwm-aw17-john-lawrence-sullivan-leather
John Lawrence Sullivan AW17. Source: The Up Coming.
  • QASIMI: Textured utilitarian, linear silhouettes.

 

Photos courtesy of The Up Coming & London Fashion Week Men’s.

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